The Crown Inn, Uploders. Curious fact: A spinster once lived opposite The Crown whose hobby was hatching tortoise eggs in her bed. So says the excellent local historian Pat Hughes, anyway. Photo by Michel Hooper-Immins.

THERE is a feeling of intimacy on entering The Crown at Uploders. It’s a small cosy pub, with the short bar just in front as you come in the door and a restful restaurant. The hearty welcome from the landlord is sincere; all around are drinkers and diners having a good time.

I’m ever fond of Palmers real ales; at the Crown there is well-kept Copper and Best Bitter on handpump. The Best is robust and biscuty in character, a nice balance for the brewery’s most popular ale. When we get to a certain age, looking at old photographs becomes an interesting pastime and here they are all over the walls, chronicling the long history of Uploders.

It’s incredible how the same faces pop-up from time to time, so I was delighted to see the happy face of Colin Newton, a fine Dorset chef I met some years ago when he ran the Terrace Restaurant [now The Farmers’ Kitchen] at Washingpool Farm just outside Bridport.

So it was no surprise to see such an interesting menu chalked on the far wall. Smoked salmon and crab cakes sounded good, but it’s some time since I’ve had duck, so that was my decision – with morello cherry sauce. The landlord asked how I liked it cooked. I always like meat well done – with no blood visible! The duck was truly delicious, with a super sauce, melting in the mouth.

I like local produce being promoted and my eyes lit up on seeing the West Country cheeseboard, with my favourite Dorset Blue Vinny, plus Goldilocks organic soft cheese, mature Cheddar and Applewood smoked Cheddar, all from Somerset. Lots of copper pots and the stone-built pub is carpeted throughout. The cheerful landlord greets all customers, whether locals or visitors like us, most warmly.

I’d never been to The Crown before, and I was mightily impressed by the standards of real ale and food. I’ll be back.

The board outside The Crown proclaims support for local suppliers such as Samways of Bridport and West Bay, and Cains of Chideock. Photo by Michel Hooper-Immins.

The Crown Inn, Uploders, Bridport, Dorset, DT6 4NU.

Landlords: Ralph & Gail Prince

Telephone: 01308 485356

Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, 12 noon – 2.30pm, 6 – 11pm. Sunday, 12 noon – 3pm, 6 – 10.30pm.  

Editor’s Note: Michel Hooper-Immins belongs to the British Guild of Beer Writers, whose members share “a love of beer and a desire to see its virtues communicated more effectively.” He is a leading member of CAMRA’s Wessex Region, and his name can often be found in The Good Pub Guide.

The editor of this website also works for Watershed PR, one of whose clients is Palmers Brewery. Please note, however, that Michel Hooper-Immins is an experienced journalist who chooses for himself which pubs to visit, and writes about all pubs and brewers in Dorset as he sees fit.

The Anchor Inn at Seatown on Dorset's Jurassic Coast has "enormous charm and character" finds Michel Hooper-Immins.

ON A BRIGHT sunny day, Seatown looks at its best – nestling between Golden Cap, the pebbly beach and the calm shimmer of Lyme Bay. The Anchor Inn is busy, in fact there’s already a long queue at the bar. Every outside table is taken, so we find a table in the main bar, just under the specials board.

The first move is to fetch a drink and the choice is between three of Palmers’ superb real ales – 200 Strong Ale, Best Bitter and Copper. I’m fond of the vinous 200 and go for that. The young couple behind the bar are working full pelt and I have to point out the inch-deep head needed topping-up to avoid short measure.

The menu is interesting, a printed card plus seven tempting specials on the board. Lobster salad with lemon mayonnaise would be a real treat – I think shellfish eaten within sight of the sea always tastes better. How about crevettes cooked in butter and sweet chilli butter?

Joan loves liver & bacon, so made up her mind in minutes. The deep plate looked good, with a bed of mustard mash and caramelised onion. Joan really enjoyed the well-cooked liver and ate the lot with great relish.

The specials board inside the Anchor Inn at Seatown. Photograph by Michel Hooper-Immins.

I had decided on the griddled chicken breasts, cooked in goats’ cheese, but with mustard mash instead of crushed new potatoes. Again served in a soup dish, this meal was superbly tasty, with a couple of thin rashers of bacon adding flavour.

Nearby, a couple of walkers were enjoying heaped ploughmans’ lunches, coming with a choice of Denhay Mature Cheddar, local gammon ham or Dorset Blue Vinny – unfortunately spelt wrongly [with an "e"] throughout the menu! But it’s good to see named local ingredients highlighted in menus and I delight in seeing more eating houses adopting this model of good practice.

Time for another pint of Palmers’ outstanding 200 Strong Ale as we think about dessert. Kept in excellent condition, the 200 is on form and this time the barmaid gives me a full pint without my having to ask.

I spy summer pudding on the chalked menu, one of my favourite desserts and with clotted cream, it creates a fine end to a superb lunch by the sea. Joan enjoyed the ice cream, a mix of three flavours.

Said to date from 1750, the Anchor Inn has enormous charm and character. All round the wall – in both bars – are series of photographs of local people. I see David and Sadie Miles pictured, the previous licensees. Sadie created the iconic beef curry that is still on the menu. Although the pub is very busy, there is a feeling of peace here and the young staff work hard. The toilets badly need upgrading, leading off a narrow passage at the back. Palmers know this and have for some years been seeking planning permission to extend the rear of this old pub to provide better facilities.

We much enjoyed our lunch at the Anchor, whose chef has clearly a talent for producing innovative meals at reasonable prices. Our lunch cost £37.30 for two. We had not been to The Anchor for a couple of years, but must call again soon.

Anchor Inn, Seatown, nr Chideock, Bridport, Dorset, DT6 6JU

Tel: 01297-489215

Landlord: Paul Wiscombe

For opening hours, which vary between summer and winter, see website:

www.theanchorinnseatown.co.uk

Editor’s Note: Michel Hooper-Immins belongs to the British Guild of Beer Writers, whose members share “a love of beer and a desire to see its virtues communicated more effectively.” He is a leading member of CAMRA’s Wessex Region, and his name can often be found in The Good Pub Guide.

The editor of this website also works for Watershed PR, one of whose clients is Palmers Brewery. Please note, however, that Michel Hooper-Immins is an experienced journalist who chooses for himself which pubs to visit, and writes about all pubs and brewers in Dorset as he sees fit.

Christy Cornish, Tim Wilkes and Vivien Wilkes behind the bar at The Spyway, Askerswell, CAMRA’s West Dorset pub of the year 2011.

THE SPYWAY INN at Askerswell near Bridport has been named as the Campaign for Real Ale’s West Dorset Pub of the Year.

The free house has been owned for the last eight years by Kevin, Tim and Vivien Wilkes.

It’s now reckoned by local real ale drinkers to be the best of West Dorset’s 263 pubs. The Spyway is one of the very few pubs in Dorset to serve real ale by gravity – direct from the cask.

CAMRA's Rich Gabe, left, presents the West Dorset CAMRA Pub of the Year 2011 certificate to Kevin, Vivien and Tim Wilkes of The Spyway Inn at Askerswell.

The West Dorset 2011 Pub of the Year certificate was presented to the Wilkes by CAMRA’s Rich Gabe at the Dorchester Beer Festival.

The Spyway now goes into CAMRA’s Regional Pub of the Year competition, against ten other pubs from East Dorset, Hampshire, Wiltshire, the Isle of Wight and the Channel Islands.

Vivien and Kevin Wilkes briefly ran a pub in Worcestershire; son Tim was a newspaper advert designer. Looking for a new career and a move south, they saw an advert for The Spyway and were charmed.

“We love living here, the Dorset people are great and it’s a splendid place to live,” said Tim.

The building dates from at least 1705, when it was a house with a blacksmith’s shop next door. It became a pub in 1745 and when the forge closed in 1905, that was incorporated into the public house. Some original flagstones are still in the entrance lobby and behind the bar.

The name of Spyway is attributed to the 18th century smuggler Isaac Gulliver, who would watch for revenue men coming up the road towards his farm further up Eggardon Hill. 

Otter Brewery’s Otter Bitter and Otter Ale are served at The Spyway.

Patrick McCaig of Otter Brewery said: “We are delighted for Tim and his family at The Spyway for winning the CAMRA West Dorset Pub of the Year.

“The attention that Tim has paid to the quality of cask ale dispense is commendable and a great example to others who pride themselves on their beer quality.

“Otter are delighted to have been part of that process and wish them all the best in the Regional finals.”

“The Spyway Inn is in an idyllic country location,” said West Dorset CAMRA Chairman Dave Harris.

“It’s not on any main road, nor is it very close to town.

“Visitors are made to feel very welcome and given clear information on which gravity dispensed ales are available. On all our visits during the year we have been impressed with the consistent quality and condition of the real ale being served.”

“We were overwhelmed when we heard about our winning the Pub of the Year award,” said the Wilkes family. “We always strived to win the top pub award and now need to maintain the consistency. It’s good for our customers too, they give us tremendous support.”

The Spyway Inn at Askerswell dates back to 1745.

FOUR MILES east of Bridport, The Spyway Inn sits in idyllic countryside at the foot of Eggardon Hill.

It may look isolated but it is actually only a mile from the A35 trunk road, down through the centre of Askerswell and then uphill towards the top of the village.

We get a warm welcome when we arrive at this family-run free house.

The beer

Otter Bitter and Otter Ale are served by gravity, directly from the cask. The Spyway is one of only a handful of Dorset pubs to do this.

I do like Otter Ale, which is brewed near Honiton in Devon, about 30 miles away, and has a full-bodied taste.

Otter ales are gradually reaching eastwards, a welcome move.

The pub

The main bar is warm, small and intimate. The brick bar is a 1960s construction, but the beams and walls betray a much older pedigree, as do the flagstones in the entrance lobby and behind the bar. There is a larger restaurant on the other side of the entrance passage.

AA four-star bedrooms are advertised. (Staying in a pub has never been more popular).

It is sparklingly clean throughout and my wife Joan was much impressed by the handcream and tissues in the smart Ladies toilet!

In warmer times, there’s a nice garden with space for campers.

The food

The menu is interesting and shows enterprise.

From the starters, I chose haddock topped by Welsh rarebit. This unusual combination certainly works and the creaminess of the rarebit combines well with the skinless and boneless white fish. I discovered the fish comes from the famed Samways fishmongers at Bridport – always a guarantee of quality.

Joan enjoyed the prawn cocktail, set in a creamy Marie Rose sauce and served in a shell-shaped dish.

I’m ever fond of steak & kidney pie – one of the great staples of British pub food and too often disappointing. Not so at The Spyway.

Here the steak & Otter Ale pie is a thick square slice of pie with mostly soft pastry and succulent pieces of steak. It came with mashed potato and peas, just as I had requested. A couple of shots of Worcestershire Sauce heightens the flavour of the meat.

Joan loves liver and bacon, which was well cooked with fresh vegetables – carrots, broccoli and mashed swede – with onion rings.

The verdict

A good hearty lunch on a cold February day was much enjoyed.

It was our first visit to The Spyway, but it certainly won’t be our last.

Further details: The Spyway Inn, Askerswell, Near Bridport, Dorset, DT2 9EP. (Its official postal town may actually be Dorchester, but it is much closer to Bridport).

Tel: 01308-485250

Opening hours: Noon – 3pm, 6pm – Close.

Click here for a map showing the Spyway’s location

Editor’s Note: Michel Hooper-Immins belongs to the British Guild of Beer Writers, whose members share “a love of beer and a desire to see its virtues communicated more effectively.” He is a leading member of CAMRA’s Wessex Region, and his name can often be found in The Good Pub Guide.

The Pilot Boat in Lyme Regis, a Victorian pub not far from the seafront. Photograph by Michel Hooper-Immins.

THE PILOT BOAT is quiet and peaceful as Lyme Regis enjoys a bright January day. A noted Palmers’ pub at the foot of Lyme’s two fearsome hills – and opposite the main X53 westbound bus stop – this distinctive white-painted building dates from 1844.

The Pilot Boat consists of two large rooms, with the bar between them. First impressions are good. Joan and I are welcomed by the smiling barmaid and choose a table in the rear room, overlooking the river Lym. The iconic high-backed chairs are comfortable. Windows all round give both rooms a bright atmosphere.

I’m fond of Palmers fine real ales from the thatched roof brewery at Bridport and here they serve superb 200 strong ale, Copper and Best Bitter.

I savour my first mouthful of 200 – a tasty and vinous drink reminiscent of Eldridge Pope’s Royal Oak – as we look at the menu.

This is a licensee who knows how to look after his beer.

Fish from Lyme Bay

Eating fish at the seaside is often a good idea: “locally sourced from Lyme Bay when possible,” says the menu. Joan fancies fishermens’ pie for her lunch – a luscious mix of coley, salmon and smoked haddock with a creamy potato and cheese topping. It comes with a nice side salad, minus oil as Joan specially asked. I too opt for fish and pick haddock fillet with a flavoursome lemon and pepper crust. It comes with potatoes, carrots and cabbage, served piping hot by the jolly waitress. Being made to feel so welcome at the Pilot Boat makes such a difference and adds greatly to the pub experience.

The comprehensive printed menu is supplemented by a set of interlinked chalk boards listing delights like beef chilli on a bed of rice, the classic cheese omelette and local sea bass. From the short dessert menu, I go for bread & butter pudding – delicious, if rather overpriced at £4.75. Joan likes ice cream and loved the coffee latte flavour with mocha swirl – again locally sourced.

Lyme Regis history

Lyme Regis has a long and proud history, reflected in the interesting photographs along all the walls – old views of the town, the historic Cobb, local lifeboatmen and the boats that bring in the fish. The atmosphere is relaxed and everybody we meet seems happy to see us. The landlord comes in from walking his dog and goes round talking to customers. Unsurprisingly, the board outside proclaims “Dog friendly!”

The Pilot Boat and Lassie

Talking of dogs, the Pilot Boat is reputedly the inspiration for Lassie. On New Years Day 1915, HMS Formidable sank in Lyme Bay and many survivors were brought into the Pilot Boat. Able Seaman John Cowan was thought to be dead, but the landlord’s crossbred collie kept licking him, bringing the sailor back to life.

We two certainly felt well restored after such a good lunch in this oasis of calm and well-kept real ale. The cost was £32.20 for two. A good experience that we want to repeat soon.

The Pilot Boat is at 1 Bridge Street, Lyme Regis.

Landlord: Bill Wiscombe. Tel: 01297 443157

Editor’s Note: Michel Hooper-Immins belongs to the British Guild of Beer Writers, whose members share “a love of beer and a desire to see its virtues communicated more effectively.” He is a leading member of CAMRA’s Wessex Region, and his name can often be found in The Good Pub Guide.

The editor of this website also works for Watershed PR, one of whose clients is Palmers Brewery. Please note, however, that Michel Hooper-Immins is an experienced journalist who chooses for himself which pubs to visit, and writes about all pubs and brewers in Dorset as he sees fit.

For the last four years Liz and Nick have been hunting through orchards, fields and gardens for apples that used to make Dorset cider.

In the case of Golden Ball from Netherbury, there was only one tree left.

Marlpits Late Bittersweet may also have been unique.

But no more.

Liz said: “Having gone to all the trouble of finding them and resurrecting them, we want them spread about the county and put to good use.”

So all 20 of the rediscovered Dorset varieties have been propagated up in Herefordshire by John Worle, Bulmer’s ex orchards manager who now runs a nursery.

And more than 300 strong, healthy, bare-rooted, bush trees will be coming to Dorset for planting on March 19. (They can be grown on as standard trees, if desired).

Trees cost £5 each – if you’d like the pleasure, but also the responsibility, of reviving part of Dorset’s heritage.

Orders can be placed via Nick and Liz’s Dorset Cider project website (NB this website is being updated right now by Liz’s son).

Demand is strong. If you’re lucky, trees can be collected on March 19 from a bit of land opposite The Half Moon pub in Melplash (between Bridport and Beaminster).

The land is owned by the cider apple grower Rupert Best, who’s in charge of the Orchards & Cider Pavilion at the Bath & West Show.

Mr Best is going to establish a new “mother orchard” in Melplash including all of the 20 rediscovered varieties.

Fourteen trees will also go for planting around the car park of the Mill House Cider Museum in Overmoigne near Weymouth. The National Trust has also ordered some.

Traditional Dorset cider apple varieties

Bittersweet                             

Golden Bittersweet                 

Marnhull Bitters                                     

Fillbarrel                                                         

Meadow Cottage                                                           

Loders

Marlpits Late                                                                                      

Winter Stubbard                                                                     

Hains Late Sweet

Bittersharp

Dash Hays Crab

Yeovil Sour Cadbury

Cap of Liberty

Marnhull Mill

Warrior

Sharp / Dual Purpose

(Dual purpose means they could also be used as cookers)  

Golden Ball

Kings Favourite                                

Symes Seedling

Tom Putt

Stubbard

Buttery Door

Tangy

For further details, please go to www.dorsetcider.com

Dorset Cider Discoveries & Mysteries video

In the video accompanying this piece, Nick and Liz talk about some of their most exciting discoveries and touch on some persisting mysteries.

For example, the enigmatic Marlpits Late Bittersweet, which has come from a single tree at Marlpits Farm in West Milton near Bridport.

Nick thinks this produces a better single variety cider than the legendary Kingston Black (he thinks Golden Ball from Netherbury near Beaminster is also exceptional).

If Marlpits Late Bittersweet keeps on producing cider of superb quality, it may well end up being grown on a commercial scale. (January 20: I heard today there are plans to start growing it in Somerset, with a view to possible commercial production in a few years time).

And so the great Dorset cider revival will continue.

Note: I filmed and edited the video for Transition Vision’s Farming Channel. Transition Vision is a new online multi-channel local TV service covering Dorset, Somerset and Wiltshire.

It’s at http://www.transitionvision.tv and on Twitter @transvisiontv

Many videos can also be seen on Transition Vision’s You Tube channel

Click on this line to watch a video about Nick Poole and the early days of the West Milton Cider Club 

CAMRA hopes its West Dorset pub guide will encourage people to visit more pubs and help keep them in business. The cover shows The Boot in Weymouth, The Anchor at Seatown, The Anchor in Burton Bradstock, The Rose & Crown in Longburton, The Royal Oak in Dorchester, Shave Cross Inn in the Marshwood Vale, and The Three Horseshoes in Burton Bradstock.

YOU KNOW the scenario – you’ve arrived in a place you don’t know well and you need to find a fine pint of real ale – and a good lunch.

Here to help you around West Dorset is the new Campaign for Real Ale guide, listing all 273 pubs in the area roughly bounded by Lyme Regis, Sherborne and Lulworth.

Within the packed 64 pages are descriptions of all the pubs, their location, telephone numbers, facilities, opening hours and - most importantly- the real ales they serve.

The centre pages open out to a map of the west of the county, showing towns and villages where real ales are served, while other pages display maps of the principal towns. You won’t get lost with this guide!

One of my favourite West Dorset pubs is the very popular and traditional George Hotel in Bridport’s South Street, described in the guide as an “unspoiled oak-panelled pub at the centre of the town, attracting a mixed clientele. Can get very busy at weekends. Less than a mile from the brewery.” It serves all of Palmers’ outstanding real ales.

In Lyme Regis, the Royal Standard has a good atmosphere, another Palmers house. “Comfortable low-ceilinged 400 year old pub with beachside garden. The interior incorporates stained glass panels, depicting historic events in Lyme. Popular pub meals.”

Country pubs feature throughout, such as the wonderful Shave Cross Inn, described as a “rural thatched pub with small flagstone bar, separate restaurant and second bar in the skittle alley/function room. Caribbean flavoured food. Thatchers cider in summer.” One real ale is from the Dorset Brewing Co. [DBC] at its new Crossways home.

Near the Somerset frontier is the Squirrel Inn at Laymore, on the Beaminster to Chard road, one of those isolated pubs you would never know about, but for guides like this. ”Unexpected red brick single bar pub in the middle of nowhere, with good local trade.  Reincarnation of an earlier stone-built pub. Well prepared pub food – popular steak night on Wednesdays.  August beer festival and ‘Ashen Faggot’ festival in January. Garden has play area.” Those like me who like Otter Bitter should find it at The Squirrel and also a Branscombe Vale beer, with occasional guests from Yeovil and Cottage Breweries.

In many cases, pubs will serve a predictable range of real ales- often from local breweries- but sometimes from faraway places. The new updated guide gives an indication of what brands are served at which pubs- although of course that is always likely to change. You will need the West Dorset CAMRA Pub Guide as an essential companion to any future pub outings.

Buy Pub Guide by post

Buy the updated 2011 West Dorset Pub Guide by post from West Dorset CAMRA at 32 Mellstock Avenue, Dorchester DT1 2BQ.

Send a cheque for £5 [including post and packing] made payable to West Dorset CAMRA.

CAMRA members pay only £4; quote your CAMRA membership number to qualify.

Dorset stockists

Alternatively, buy a copy over the bar for only £3.99 from the following outlets:

Bridport – Palmers Wine Store and selected pubs;

Dorchester – The Blue Raddle, 9 Church Street;

Lyme Regis – Tourist Information Centre, Town Mill Brewery and selected pubs;

Portland – Royal Portland Arms, Fortuneswell;

Weymouth – Bradburys, St Edmund Street; Londis, Westham Road and the Railway Station news kiosk.

Michel Hooper-Immins belongs to the British Guild of Beer Writers, whose members share “a love of beer and a desire to see its virtues communicated more effectively.” He is a leading member of CAMRA’s Wessex Region, and his name can often be found in The Good Pub Guide.

The editor of this website also works for Watershed PR, one of whose clients is Palmers Brewery. Please note, however, that Michel Hooper-Immins is an experienced journalist who writes about all pubs and brewers in Dorset as he sees fit.

The CAMRA guide is noticed here because it is a very useful book, worth knowing about and buying. And pubs across West Dorset always do need customers!

Just this month The Bottle Inn  at Marshwood closed, though it may reopen near Easter.          

YOU TUBERS: Potato lovers in Drimpton Village Hall. Potato Day tables are set out in a horseshoe pattern in the middle of the hall, with potatoes displayed round two sides, and onions, shallots and seeds on one side.

WEST DORSET’S fourth annual Potato Day, organised by gardeners for gardeners, will be held in Drimpton Village Hall on Saturday 12 February from 10:30am to 3:30pm.

Over 60 varieties of Seed Potatoes will be offered for sale by Somerset nursery Pennard Plants, by the tuber or in bags, with information on type, cultivation and disease resistance for each one.

Potatoes are not a difficult crop to grow, though they can be prone to a range of diseases.

Planting varieties suited to local conditions can make the difference between success and failure.

Potato Day enables growers to meet together, chat about what has grown well for them and also chose from a wide range of varieties brought by Pennards, who are familiar with our soil and climate.

Previous Potato Days here in Drimpton have attracted growers from West Dorset as well as our neighbours in Somerset and Devon. Some are very experienced, heading straight to the types they know – but always with an ear to what others are recommending.

There are novice gardeners as well, for whom the expertise on hand, from other visitors and from Pennards and Horticultural Society members, really does offer encouragement and reassurance.

This fourth Potato Day arranged by Clapton, Wayford and District Horticultural Society will follow the format of previous years, with tweaks and improvements, including all-day brunches, so if you skip breakfast you won’t need to await lunch time.

Other features:

Warming drinks and for young people, activities and fun as usual.

SPUD FUN: Mural created with potato painting by children visiting Drimpton’s Potato Day, under the guidance of local artist Jenny Beck and helpers

Heritage Vegetable seeds, a selection of Garlic, Onion and Shallot sets, plus herbs, fruit bushes, rhubarb and more.

Chance to enter our popular potato growing competition, (classes for young people and adults – weigh-in on Show Day, Saturday 14th August).

There is no need to book, but for further information please contact 01308 868843.

Drimpton Village Hall is on Chard Road, Drimpton, between Chard and Beaminster.

For SatNav: DT8 3RF

As gardeners we try to work with Mother Nature improving the soil and keeping a good balance in the garden, let’s hope she smiles on us with the weather on Potato Day on 12th February.

Editor’s Note: Brian Hesketh blogs at http://soggydaygardener.blogspot.com/

Or click here for more on Real West Dorset about potatoes (and parsnips) and Drimpton.

The Poet Laureate in Poundbury, Dorchester. Photo: Michel Hooper-Immins.

THE POET LAUREATE is one of Dorset’s newest pubs, at the centre of Prince Charles’ model village of Poundbury. I visited there with a colleague, following a late-running meeting.

Bright and Christmassy, the pub was surprisingly full on a cold Wednesday lunchtime. We settled on a table in the corner and studied the interesting menu, supplemented by chalked specials on the board above us.

Andy settled for a pot of tea, while I opted for a pint of Butcombe Bitter, real ale brewed in the Mendips. There was also Ringwood Best Bitter.

How to choose between the delights of the Casterbridge Grill, confit of duck and traditional fish and chips? Then I spotted braised beef – a great favourite of mine and often more tender than steak these days. By now, the Poet Laureate was full and with a nice warm buzz. Wizzard wished for a Merry Christmas on the unobtrusive piped music, as lights twinkled on the Christmas tree.

Understaffed

As time went on, we realised that the tables either side of us – who had been in situ when we arrived – still had not been fed! By now, my glass of Butcombe had emptied and on seeking a refill at the bar, I discovered the barman and the two female waitresses were fully occupied serving food. Ten minutes later, the barman brought my beer over and it was to be well over half an hour after ordering that our food arrived.

I was impressed by the cutlery being brought on a tray with a serviette on top – a nice touch. The tender cubes of beef were immersed in a tasty gravy, with succulent herb dumplings and mashed potato – which I much prefer to chips these days. Vegetables came in a separate dish – cauliflower, carrots and broccoli. I asked for Worcestershire sauce, but there was none – not even behind the bar.

Having much enjoyed the braised beef, I turned to the dessert menu. The cherry frangipane was moist and tasty.

With a mix of pews, and dark wood chairs, the Poet Laureate has a comfortable feel with a good standard of cuisine. However, being well understaffed that day meant longer waits for customers.

Our food and drinks bill came to £36.90.

Notes: The Poet Laureate is at 5 Pummery Square, Poundbury, Dorchester, DT1 3GW. Tel: 01305-251511.

Children & dogs are allowed inside.

Open: 11.45am-3pm, 6-11pm.

The landlords are Brian and Gloria Dodge.

The pub is named after the late Poet Laureate Ted Hughes, whom Prince Charles greatly admired.

Michel Hooper-Immins belongs to the British Guild of Beer Writers, whose members share “a love of beer and a desire to see its virtues communicated more effectively.” He is a leading member of CAMRA’s Wessex Region, and his name can often be found in The Good Pub Guide.

Another view of The Poet Laureate in Pummery Square, Poundbury, taken from the Brownsword Hall by Chris Downer, and reused under Creative Commons Licence.

The Royal Oak at Cerne Abbas, built in 1540.

WITH A THATCHED roof and ivy all round the door, The Royal Oak at Cerne Abbas looks the archetypal English pub – reproduced on countless postcards of this wonderfully atmospheric and ancient Dorset village.

Landlord Brendan Malone hails from Dublin and welcomes all his customers like old friends. He ran the Hunter’s Moon, down the road at Middlemarsh, for a lot of years, so knows many of his local customers.

Today there is only Badger First Gold on handpump, the delivery from brewers Hall & Woodhouse comes tomorrow, when there will be Tanglefoot and Pickled Partridge. I was sorry not to sample the spicy Pickled Partridge – Badger’s winter ale – the best of the seasonals.

Part carpeted and part stoneflagged, The Royal Oak’s extraordinary interior is made-up of three interconnecting rooms, defined by the low black beams and whitewashed stone walls. “Built in 1540″ proclaims the sign outside and The Royal Oak is a real time capsule – comfortable and warming.

As the open fire crackles behind us, keeping out the chilly November wind, we scan the menu and the specials board by the bar. My eyes light-up, seeing local venison and Badger ale casserole – I’m a big lover of game and Brendan is supplied by game expert Margaret Ralph – a recommendation in itself.

The casserole comes with mashed potato and vegetables. The sauce is superb and the cubes of tender venison really melt in my mouth. My wife Joan chose the warm chicken and bacon salad, a nice combination for a cold day. Our old friend Lil joined us for lunch and went for scampi. I had to help her out with the last few nuggets, so I know how tasty they were! Lil’s huge home-made chips were more like potato wedges, thick and crisp.

The menu shows variety and enterprise.

There was also baked gilthead bream, duck breast, pork loin, rack of lamb and minted lamb, amongst other delights, all served with a distinctive sauce.

Brendan Malone has brought the successful formula of the Hunter’s Moon to Cerne Abbas. An incredible array of knick-knacks hangs from the ceiling and on the walls. There are cups, jugs, brass candlesticks and many old photographs of this venerable 470 year old pub. The entrance from the street is level and disabled friendly.

Deliberating from the orgy of puddings is difficult, but I opt for bread and butter pudding, a great favourite of mine.

I was not disappointed by the soft textured treat, brimming with smooth hot custard. The girls agreed on mixed ice cream, three scoops of delightful flavour.

I enjoyed another pint of Badger First Gold as we contemplated leaving the warm oasis of The Royal Oak for the cold world outside. I ventured into the rear beer garden, not surprisingly deserted in November! The charming landlord wished us a good journey home and expressed the hope we would call again. We most certainly will.

Michel Hooper-Immins belongs to the British Guild of Beer Writers, whose members share “a love of beer and a desire to see its virtues communicated more effectively.” He is a leading member of CAMRA’s Wessex division, and his name can often be found in The Good Pub Guide.